Grace Dent

Grace Dent reviews Bullgogi, the UK’s largest Korean barbecue restaurant, in Manchester’s Piccadilly Plaza. The 165-cover venue relies heavily on at-table screens rather than conventional servers, creating an efficient but impersonal experience. The menu is broad enough to attract Korean-food enthusiasts and first-time diners, while dishes including sundubu jjigae, chicken bibimbap and dumplings receive praise. The review is less impressed by the strip-lit, service-station-like setting and notes that customers largely ignore the tabletop grills. Bullgogi is ultimately judged a decent, affordable and accessible restaurant, but one that reflects the continuing automation and commercialisation of British dining.

Grace Dent gives Chez Rose in Mayfair a highly enthusiastic review, praising Spencer Metzger’s French-inspired restaurant and head chef Mark Catchpole’s cooking. Standout dishes include Cantabrian anchovies, tomatoes with peach and stracciatella, courgette flower with ricotta, whole John Dory and a dramatic 70% chocolate soufflé, which Dent calls one of the dining highlights of 2026. The restaurant offers à la carte dining at about £90 per person before drinks and service.

Grace Dent finds Nico Simeone’s Manchester restaurant Lennox inventive, lively and relatively affordable, but inconsistent. Standout dishes include the fish finger with katsu curry, beef tartare and aged ribeye, while the halloumi shawarma, gravlax and lemon tart disappoint. The à la carte restaurant aims to be a personal, unscalable departure from Simeone’s Six by Nico empire, yet its rapid expansion to Glasgow and Edinburgh suggests otherwise. Dent leaves impressed by the ambition but overwhelmed by the barrage of competing flavours.

Grace Dent praises Vieni, Angelina Adamo’s small Sicilian restaurant in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, for combining ambitious, hearty cooking with an unpretentious and genuinely lively atmosphere. Standout dishes include large arancini, 32-hour ox cheek crispy lasagne, fregola with clams and inventive daily desserts. Dent contrasts the restaurant’s warmth and individuality with larger, more impersonal city-centre venues, concluding that Vieni is well worth visiting.

Kawan, the new London restaurant launched by Nigel Ng, suffers from a concept overly reliant on internet in-jokes and dishes that fail to deliver on their playful premises. Despite Ng’s large online following, the restaurant is sparsely attended, with its menu and décor described as dated, gimmicky and poorly executed. Several featured dishes, including choco-orange ribs, a Chinese wellington and blue milo dumplings, are criticised for confusing flavours and unappealing presentation. Service is polite but overshadowed by impractical design choices, leaving the dining experience feeling uncomfortable and unsatisfying.

A review of Appalachia, a new London restaurant serving traditional Appalachian regional dishes with strong attention to authenticity, praising its inventive menu, standout cornbread madeleines, fried green tomato salad, and butter-brined half chicken. Drinks, including notable non-alcoholic options, are commended, while some dishes such as the beef tartare tostada and banana pudding receive mixed notes. The restaurant is described as unusual but exciting, offering some of the best Appalachian cooking in the UK.

A new Greek-Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden offers a traditional, accessible menu executed with care by chef Nick Molyviatis and hospitality lead Barry Karacostas. Strong meze dishes, standout wild prawn saganaki, and a single excellent dessert highlight the kitchen’s strengths. The restaurant balances a homely aesthetic with its connection to the glossy Arcade food hall, reflecting shifts in modern dining trends. Warm service, solid cooking and clear ambition position Zylia as a promising addition to London’s dining scene despite minor imperfections typical of a newly opened venue.

A highly positive appraisal of the Golden Tooth in north London highlights the evolution of chef Matthew Scott and wine expert Charlie Carr from their earlier ventures to a more mature and confident dining experience. Dishes such as the Montgomery cheddar tart, stargazy pie, and sunflower seed frangipane are praised for their creativity, richness, and balance, while the restaurant’s understated pre-opening messaging contrasts with its fully realised execution. Strong flavours, thoughtful design, and a confident menu position the Golden Tooth as a standout dining destination.

A review of Oudh 1722 in London highlights chef Aktar Islam’s refined, Awadhi-inspired cooking in a listed Victorian townhouse near Borough Market. The menu features dishes such as lamb shorba, gol guppa, nihari and a standout mutanjan dam biryani, balancing meticulous presentation with generous, indulgent portions. The restaurant’s labyrinthine, historic layout and attentive service contribute to an impressive dining experience that blends tradition with modern technique. Oudh 1722 is positioned as a major opening for 2026 and a compelling alternative to London’s high‑demand Indian restaurants.

Bar Shrimp in Manchester is praised for refined, skillful seafood-focused cooking served in a stylish, New York‑inspired bar setting. The team behind the venue, previously connected through Blue Hill, offers sophisticated small plates such as devilled eggs with crab, Arbroath smokie fritters and marinated mussel escabèche, alongside well-matched cocktails and wines. The atmosphere is welcoming rather than pretentious, and the simple, high‑quality dishes are highlighted as its greatest strength.

A highly praised review of Skof in Manchester highlights Tom Barnes’s refined yet relaxed approach to fine dining, noting intricate dishes such as miso custard, roast duck and multiple desserts, including a sentimental tiramisu tribute to his late father. The restaurant’s balance of technical precision, creativity and satisfying portions is credited for its strong reputation and Michelin star, with the experience described as both emotional and well worth securing a reservation.

A lavish Greek restaurant in London, Fenix blends flamboyant design with unexpectedly serious cooking, offering dishes such as rich deconstructed moussaka, smoked taramasalata and elevated calamari. Despite its maximalist aesthetic and indulgent touches like truffle and caviar, the food shows care and quality. With both à la carte and set menus, the venue aims to appeal broadly, contrasting sharply with more niche contemporary openings. Its playful, crowd-pleasing desserts and accessible atmosphere make it a polished, enjoyable and commercially savvy addition to the dining scene.

A review of the new Hackney restaurant Auguste praises its stylish, Abruzzo‑influenced menu and standout dishes such as chicken saltimbocca and cappelletti, while noting uneven execution and small‑plates inconsistency. Skewers arrive late, some dishes lack coherence, and dessert options disappoint, though the restaurant benefits from a loyal customer base and flashes of real culinary promise.

Mitsu replaces Nobu Shoreditch with a brighter, livelier space serving sushi, sashimi and Japanese‑influenced dishes aimed at both a younger, trend‑focused crowd and more traditional diners. Highlights include chutoro sashimi, akami temaki and chicken tsukune, while sandos and a tableside matcha tiramisu cater to social‑media appeal. Despite not pleasing purists, the restaurant offers enjoyable food, a welcoming atmosphere and strong service, making it a solid choice for casual meals or group dining.

A warm and enthusiastic review of Willy’s, a cosy and characterful restaurant located inside Margate House hotel, praising its hearty, well‑executed dishes, thoughtful drinks selection and welcoming atmosphere. The piece highlights chef Mark O’Brien’s skill and pedigree, the hotel’s appealing design and hospitality, and the restaurant’s growing local popularity, while noting limited seating as its main challenge.

Impala in Soho delivers a distinctive fusion of Egyptian, Turkish‑Cypriot and broader Mediterranean influences shaped by chef Meedu Saad’s personal culinary history. The menu showcases unconventional, boldly flavored dishes, from oxtail‑braised bird’s tongue pasta to langoustine kibbeh and monkfish cooked in grape leaves. Strong supplier relationships and an eclectic wine and cocktail list reflect an intentional, boundary‑pushing approach. Desserts are limited to a single date and pistachio custard tart, reinforcing the restaurant’s unapologetically maximalist identity. Praised for originality and execution, the restaurant is portrayed as a vivid glimpse into the future of dining.

A review of Holy Carrot’s new Spitalfields location highlights its inventive plant‑based and vegetarian dishes, expanded from the original vegan concept. Chef Daniel Watkins’ menu features imaginative preparations such as king oyster mushroom vol‑au‑vent, khachapuri with baked egg, and refined desserts including Basque cheesecake and chocolate crémeux. The restaurant is praised for elevating plant‑based dining beyond typical vegan fare, contrasting positively with other vegetarian chains and emphasizing creativity, elegance and strong flavor.

Simpson’s-in-the-Strand is celebrated for its traditional British character, grand dining hall and nostalgic menu featuring classics such as roast rib, fish pie and spotted dick. Service details, atmosphere and culinary offerings evoke strong sentimentality toward British food traditions. While some dishes are considered pricey or imperfect, several plates, including the prawn cocktail and roast cod, are praised. The restaurant’s heritage, comfort and sense of occasion make it a dependable choice for a satisfying and indulgent meal.

A positive review of Burro, a new Italian restaurant in Covent Garden by Conor Gadd, highlighting its grown‑up atmosphere, polished service and elegant yet hearty dishes. Standout offerings include Venetian chicken livers on toast, fried artichoke with bottarga and a highly praised fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu. The restaurant’s serene design contrasts with its busy surroundings, and its menu echoes the strengths of Gadd’s earlier restaurant Trullo. Despite the abundance of Italian restaurants in central London, Burro is portrayed as a welcome and well‑executed addition, ending on a playful note with its inventive tiramisu doughnuts.

A warmly enthusiastic review highlights the revitalisation of the Wellington pub in Margate under chef Billy Stock and front‑of‑house lead Ellie Topham. The menu is celebrated for its comforting, well‑executed dishes, especially the pies, including standout chicken and leek and lobster and cod versions. The pub’s atmosphere is described as nostalgic and welcoming, offering robust classics, quality drinks and attentive service. Despite harsh winter weather, the venue stands out as an inviting refuge serving generous, satisfying food that signals a promising new era for the establishment.

Osteria Vibrato in Soho is praised for precise, confident Italian cooking and a refined yet lively atmosphere shaped by owner Charlie Mellor’s hospitality. The menu features standout dishes including seafood fritto misto, Sicilian red prawns and a white risotto highlighted as exceptional. The restaurant’s design, extensive wine list and live piano music contribute to a mature, timeless feel. With a strong culinary team and attention to detail, the osteria is positioned as a future London dining institution.

A lively Georgian restaurant in London offers energetic service, loud music and an atmospheric setting, but the food proves inconsistent. Some dishes, including aubergines and dips, are praised, while others, such as the lamb skewers, grape salad and especially the fire-cooked sea bream, disappoint. Staff and wine options impress, yet several plates fall short in execution, leaving the overall experience mixed.

A lively, unconventional Birmingham restaurant led by Glyn Purnell delivers generous, imaginative dishes and a vibrant atmosphere that breaks from traditional fine dining. Standout items include an oversized gougère, coddled duck eggs on sourdough with smoked almond paste, and Cornish skate with espelette sauce. Service is warm and informal, the food consistently indulgent, and the overall experience emphasizes enjoyment over ceremony, making Trillium one of the stronger attempts at relaxed Michelin-level dining.

A highly stylised breakfast service at Pavyllon in the Four Seasons London showcases fine‑dining dishes such as eggs royale, chia pudding and an impressive french toast, reflecting a rising trend toward luxury early‑morning meals. The review highlights polished service, ambitious menu offerings and the growing appeal of lavish breakfasts among early risers while questioning staffing demands for such early operations.