The article explores the concept of 'queering couture' by examining how designers like Martin Margiela and Alexander McQueen have disrupted traditional notions of couture. It highlights Margiela's use of found objects and deconstructed garments to challenge the high/low fashion binary, and McQueen's use of unconventional materials and performance art to push boundaries. The text also critiques the fashion industry's slow adaptation to progressive ideas, such as the CFDA's 'non-binary' Fashion Week category, and calls for a more inclusive and fluid understanding of what couture can be.

The article explores the concept of 'queering couture' by examining how designers like Martin Margiela and Alexander McQueen have disrupted traditional notions of couture. Margiela's use of found objects and deconstructed garments challenges the elite status of couture, while McQueen's innovative materials and performance art pieces push the boundaries of fashion. The text critiques the fashion industry's slow adaptation to progressive ideas, highlighting the need for a more inclusive and fluid approach to fashion. It calls for recognition of past rule-breakers and encourages new disruptive minds to redefine what couture can be.

Model Zenobia Voegele-Downing collaborates with Paris-based photographer Laura Marie Cieplik on a photo series titled 'Zenobia’s Dreams,' exploring the vulnerability and intimacy of dream states. The project, shot in London and Dorset, captures haunting and personal moments, with Voegele-Downing taking on a creative director role to portray herself authentically. The series features both black and white and color images, emphasizing the emotional depth and vividness of dreams.

Sinéad O’Dwyer, an Irish-born designer, is revolutionizing the fashion industry by creating inclusive designs that cater to larger bodies. Her work challenges traditional body dysmorphia in fashion, focusing on emotional responses and innovative techniques. O’Dwyer’s designs prioritize comfort and subversive aesthetics, starting with the model rather than the garment. Her Spring/Summer 2023 show at London Fashion Week featured a diverse cast of models, emphasizing unity and empowerment. O’Dwyer discusses the mental health impact of luxury fashion's exclusionary practices and her commitment to offering unique options for different body types.

Ixta Belfrage's cookbook 'Mezcla' offers a fresh and compelling take on fusion cooking, blending Italian, Mexican, and Brazilian cuisines. Drawing from her diverse heritage and experiences, Belfrage reclaims and celebrates the term 'fusion' despite its criticisms. The book, developed during the pandemic, reflects her emotional journey and meticulous recipe development process. Belfrage encourages readers to experiment with her recipes, emphasizing the joy of creative cooking. Her background includes working at Yotam Ottolenghi’s test kitchen and co-authoring 'Ottolenghi Flavour.'

Mushrooms are gaining popularity across various fields, from fashion to wellness. Andrea Gentl's new cookbook, 'Cooking With Mushrooms,' explores the culinary potential of fungi, offering diverse recipes and cooking techniques. The book features innovative dishes, mushroom powders, and detailed photography by Gentl and her husband, Martin Hyers. Gentl sources mushrooms from local markets and online services, emphasizing their health benefits and environmental importance. While the book avoids the topic of psilocybin mushrooms, Gentl acknowledges their personal benefits. The cookbook aims to provide a comprehensive guide to cooking with mushrooms, excluding commercial wellness trends.

The Quarantine Cookbook, an online culinary resource launched by Carmen Hall and Layla Alter, aims to bring people together through cooking during lockdown. Featuring contributions from professional chefs and food enthusiasts, the cookbook supports food bank charities like Food Bank for NYC, Trussell Trust, and World Central Kitchen. Contributors express the joy and relief cooking has brought them, emphasizing the importance of meals in creating structure and routine. The project has raised $9k and continues to grow, with plans to add more features and opportunities for donations.

Berlin-based photographer Mark Peckmezian delves into his debut photobook 'Nice,' which captures intimate portraits of strangers. The book, published by Roma Publications, explores the philosophical aspects of identity and self-perception. Peckmezian, known for his work with brands like Gucci, Hermès, and Bottega Veneta, describes his ideal portrait as 'utterly simple' yet detailed. The selection process for the book was rigorous, resulting in a collection of 115 portraits from over 1,200-1,500 shots taken over four years. Peckmezian's approach involves collaborating with local assistants to find and photograph subjects, emphasizing the unstable and ambiguous nature of identity.

Farokh Talati, driven by a desire to share Parsi food with the world, has published his first cookbook, 'Parsi: From Persia to Bombay.' The book combines traditional Parsi recipes with influences from Talati's community in London. Highlighting the rich history and unique flavors of Parsi cuisine, Talati emphasizes the importance of preserving these culinary traditions amidst a dwindling Parsi community. The cookbook features a mix of food imagery and personal anecdotes, celebrating the cultural heritage and humor of the Parsi people. Talati's work is supported by contributions from notable figures like Homi K. Babha, ensuring the continued spread and appreciation of Parsi cooking.

A troupe of designers, led by stylist Marika-Ella Ames, brought a fresh perspective to the Cayman Islands Carnival, blending Caribbean tradition with innovative fashion. Designers from various countries collaborated to create garments that embodied themes of rebirth and transformation, using local materials and responding to the carnival's dynamic environment. The event showcased the intersection of fashion, culture, and sustainability, with Palm Heights playing a pivotal role in facilitating this creative fusion.

Oxfam's Second-Hand September initiative inspired a fashion journalist to exclusively shop second-hand for a month, including for a wedding in New York. The experience highlighted the environmental impact of fast fashion and the benefits of sustainable shopping. The author navigated challenges such as counterfeit items and excessive packaging, ultimately finding joy in second-hand shopping through online auctions, charity shops, and clothes swaps. The initiative led to a lasting change in shopping habits, emphasizing the importance of viewing clothes as non-disposable and fostering a more sustainable approach to fashion.

Lara Johnson-Wheeler shares a variety of stress-relief techniques suitable for at-home practice, emphasizing the importance of self-care. She recommends skincare routines, walking, yoga, hot baths, and disconnecting from social media as effective methods to manage stress. Specific products like Dr Jaut’s sheet masks, Yu Ling’s rose quartz roller, and Pukka’s Relax tea are highlighted for their beneficial properties. The article combines personal anecdotes with practical advice, offering readers a comprehensive guide to reducing stress in their daily lives.

Rebecca May Johnson's debut book, Small Fires, delves into the intersection of cooking, personal identity, and storytelling. The book, which features only a few recipes, primarily explores the significance of Marcella Hazan’s tomato and garlic sauce. Johnson emphasizes the importance of the body in cooking and challenges traditional notions of knowledge. Her journey in food writing began with her blog, Dinner Document, and has since expanded to contributions in various publications. Small Fires has garnered attention from notable figures like Nigella Lawson and Lorde, and is praised for its blend of personal anecdotes and complex theory.

Danish chef Frederik Bille Brahe, known for his Copenhagen restaurant Atelier September, launches a new cookbook titled 'Atelier September: A place for daytime cooking' at London's Dover Street Market. The book emphasizes the significance of daytime cooking, a concept Bille Brahe pioneered in Denmark, and features recipes that elevate simple daily foods with a focus on personal moments and fine dining. The article highlights Bille Brahe's philosophy of using beautiful, historical dishes and his approach to creating memorable dining experiences. The cookbook, published by Apartamento, is celebrated for its accessible yet elegant recipes, mostly vegetarian, that can be replicated by home cooks.

Ananda in the Himalayas, a luxurious wellness retreat near Rishikesh, offers a unique blend of Ayurvedic and other holistic therapies. The property, once the seat of the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal, provides a serene environment for various treatments, including yoga, massages, and traditional Tibetan techniques. The retreat emphasizes a comprehensive approach to well-being, encouraging guests to integrate their learnings into daily life. The article highlights the retreat's luxurious amenities, the personalized wellness programs, and the cultural experiences available, such as visits to the Kunjapuri Devi Temple and the Ganga Aarti ceremony in Rishikesh.

The Gourmand’s Egg, a new book from The Gourmand and Taschen, explores the egg's cultural and culinary significance through stories, recipes, and art. Co-founder David Lane highlights the egg's symbolism and references in art by Dalí, Basquiat, Kahlo, and others. The book includes egg-inspired fashion, such as Rihanna's Met Gala outfit, and offers a range of recipes. Photographers like Bobby Doherty and Matthieu Lavanchy contribute to the book's aesthetic, which blends classic and contemporary elements.

Talia Chetrit's book 'Joke' challenges preconceptions of motherhood through a series of photographs that blend humor, sincerity, and subversion. The images span from her teenage years to her work as a fashion photographer, featuring her family and various garments, including those by Telfar, Molly Goddard, and Eckhaus Latta. Chetrit explores the taboo of motherhood, privacy, and the intersection of professional and personal life. The book includes provocative images, such as a C-section and BDSM-referenced clothing, aiming to spark dialogue about societal norms and the role of women in art.

Penny Goring's new exhibition at the ICA in London, titled Penny World, showcases her art created from personal trauma and mental illness. The exhibition features a variety of media, including ballpoint pen drawings, hand-sewn fabric sculptures, and digital collages. Goring's work explores themes of grief, fear, loss, and powerlessness, often using her own face in digital collages to assert ownership. The exhibition is not a retrospective but an expansive exploration of her 30-year career, emphasizing the necessity of creativity for her survival. Goring's art reflects her struggle against austerity and inadequate systematic support, offering a hopeful affirmation of the power of creativity.

Louise Giovanelli's exhibition 'As If, Almost' is currently on display at White Cube Bermondsey in London, featuring her paintings that blend elements of Old Masters with digital manipulation. Giovanelli, a London-born artist with a BA from Manchester School of Art and further studies at Städelschule in Frankfurt, is known for her detailed work with fabric and hair textures in oil paintings. Her work is described as having a sense of glossy hedonism with an underlying tension. The exhibition includes contemporary painters Danica Lundy and Ilana Savdie and runs until 11 September 2022.

Elena Velez, a designer from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, is making her debut at New York Fashion Week. Her designs are influenced by her industrial upbringing and her mother's strength and independence. Velez's work embraces unglamorous Americana tropes, combining functionality with a sense of urgency and vulnerability. Her unique approach has made her show highly anticipated and her garments coveted beyond the United States.

Lara Johnson-Wheeler pays a heartfelt tribute to her late grandmother, Charlotte Johnson Wahl, reflecting on her life, art, and the indelible impact she left on her family and the art world. The article delves into Charlotte's unique artistic style, her struggles with mental health, and her later battle with Parkinson's disease. Through vivid descriptions of her grandmother's paintings and personal anecdotes, Lara captures the essence of Charlotte's legacy, emphasizing the profound connection between her art and her life experiences.

Tegen Williams, founder of the fashion brand House of Gorgeousity, discusses the origins and development of her brand, which started as a joke and evolved into a creative project. The brand's IGTV promo series, The Real Housewives of Gorgeous City, features notable personalities like Adwoa and Kesewa Aboah, Bel Powley, and Ned Smith. The series parodies the Bravo franchise and showcases Williams' innovative designs made from household items. The article highlights the collaborative efforts behind the project and the positive reception it has received.

The article explores the resurgence of the hourglass figure trend, popularized by celebrities like Kim Kardashian, and the role of luxury shapewear in achieving this look. Lara Johnson-Wheeler visits Rigby & Peller for a fitting and consultation, and also reviews other brands like Simone Perele, Heist, Skims, La Perla, and Wolford. She emphasizes the importance of knowing one's size, understanding the desired effect from the garments, and setting realistic expectations. The article underscores that well-designed shapewear enhances one's natural body shape and boosts confidence.

Charlie Porter's new book, What Artists Wear, delves into the intimate relationship between artists and their clothing, exploring how garments inform and become part of their art. The book features notable artists like Lynn Hershman Leeson, Martine Syms, and Prem Sahib, and discusses the functional and emotional significance of their attire. Porter aims to humanize artists by highlighting their everyday clothing choices, moving away from deifying them. The book is part of Penguin's John Berger series and reflects Porter's deep connection with the art community and his influential fashion writing.

Dominic Myatt's new book, 'Penile Papers,' features bawdy illustrations of penises by various artists, including Nick Knight and Vivienne Westwood. The book, published in a limited edition of 200, donates all proceeds to the Terrence Higgins Trust and the Runnymede Trust. The collection showcases diverse artistic styles and includes text snippets from contributors. Myatt discusses his fascination with phallic scribbles and the playful nature of the project, which also mocks the phenomenon of unsolicited 'dick pics.'

As London reopens, a variety of art exhibitions offer a rich array of perspectives and mediums, featuring both emerging and established artists. Highlights include Penny Goring's subversive doll forms, Ryan Driscoll's non-binary revisions of classical themes, and Rhea Dillon's urgent installation on Black women's access to amorphicity. Other notable exhibitions include Sam McKinniss's pop culture depictions, Ed Fornieles's exploration of social media and algorithms, and Damien Hirst's conversation-sparking works. The exhibitions collectively address themes of race, history, and belonging, with a focus on decolonization and anti-racism.

Rosie Marks' new book, '08.14-10.19,' published by DoBeDo, captures the everyday oddities of human life through voyeuristic iPhone photography taken between 2014 and 2019. The collection of 526 images offers a nostalgic look at pre-pandemic interactions, highlighting the beauty in the banal and the absurdity in the everyday. Marks addresses the moral implications of her work by including a psychiatrist's analysis, adding depth to her exploration of human behavior. The book serves as a curated archive of her extensive travels, primarily in London and America, with some images from the Arctic Circle in Russia.

Frank Lebon's new film, Diddly Squat, explores the concept of home through the lens of squatting in London. The 15-minute short film combines Lebon's signature cut-and-paste graphics with intimate camera work, telling the story of an expecting couple, Archy and Rachel, as they navigate the challenges of finding a place to live. The film delves into the moral complexities of ownership and community, inspired by Lebon's personal experiences and research. Scored by Mount Kimbie, the film aims to engage viewers in a broader conversation about what defines a home.

The article explores the concept of 'nostalgia dressing' during the COVID-19 pandemic, highlighting how people are turning to old clothes and vintage fashion as a way to connect with happier times. It discusses the psychological impact of nostalgia, citing experts who explain that while nostalgia can be bittersweet, it can also boost well-being when engaged with intentionally. The piece also touches on the growing trend of sustainable fashion and the increased demand for vintage items.

Fashion students from prestigious institutions around the world share their experiences of completing their graduate collections during the Covid-19 pandemic. They discuss the challenges of adapting to remote learning, sourcing materials online, and the emotional impact of the crisis. Despite the obstacles, these young designers have demonstrated resilience and innovation, finding creative solutions to execute their visions. The pandemic has also prompted reflections on the future of the fashion industry, with hopes for more sustainable and thoughtful practices.

A 26-year-old arts and fashion writer critiques the pervasive influence of social media, particularly Instagram, on personal relationships and mental health. Reflecting on her own experiences and her mother's battle with cancer, she highlights the curated nature of online personas and the psychological impact of constant comparison. Despite recognizing the platform's allure, she advocates for regular breaks to maintain a sense of reality and self-preservation.

Disney+ is reviving the beloved series Lizzie McGuire, with Hilary Duff reprising her role alongside the original family cast members Hallie Todd, Robert Carradine, and Jake Thomas. The new series will follow a 30-year-old Lizzie navigating life in New York as an apprentice to an interior designer. The announcement has generated excitement among fans, with Jake Thomas sharing the news on Instagram by recreating the show's iconic opening sequence.

The article discusses the lack of realistic portrayal of parenting and children's presence in television shows, using the example of the final episode of Friends and the character's neglect of their daughter. It also references the comedy series Motherland, which satirizes middle-class London parents, to highlight the contrast between television depictions and the time-consuming reality of parenting, as illustrated by the author's own challenging experience of a simple errand with their child.

Jazzelle continues her explorations into identity, gender, and self-expression by using make-up and fashion to create a series of high-octane, high-concept characters.

Jamie Hawkesworth, a photographer with a background in forensic science, is known for capturing the extraordinary in the mundane. His work spans from empathetic portraits at Preston Bus Station to high-profile fashion campaigns for brands like Marni and Alexander McQueen. Recently, he followed the London Schools Symphony Orchestra to Romania, resulting in a new exhibition. Despite his success in fashion, Jamie remains focused on simple, documentary-style photography, emphasizing curiosity and the joy of capturing moments. He consciously steps back from industry pressures to maintain his creative freedom.

The article discusses various methods to prevent and manage thigh chafing during the summer, sharing personal experiences and tips from different individuals. Recommendations include using products like Weleda Skin Food, liquid talcum powder from Asda, and Bandelettes. The narrative emphasizes body positivity and self-acceptance, encouraging open discussions about chafing to reduce shame and find effective solutions.

The article discusses Comme des Garçons' Autumn/Winter 2018 womenswear collection, designed by Rei Kawakubo, which was showcased in Paris. The collection is described as flamboyant and extravagant, featuring exaggerated designs with layers of lace, sequins, brocade, tulle, and satin. The author analyzes the collection through the lens of Susan Sontag's 1964 essay 'Notes on Camp,' which Kawakubo cited as an inspiration. The collection's embrace of 'Camp'—a concept of artifice, exaggeration, and parody—is examined, questioning whether it achieves 'successful Camp' as defined by Sontag. The evolution of Kawakubo's design philosophy from her earlier work, which was characterized by rebellion and anti-fashion, to the current collection's conscious use of 'Camp' is also explored.

In an interview for SHOWstudio's Queer 2018 project, Features Editor Lara Johnson-Wheeler talks to Michèle Lamy about the concept of safe spaces, particularly in the context of the LGBTQ+ community. The interview takes place at the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London, where Lamy opens up about her own sexuality and discusses the evolution of queer and safe spaces. The conversation sheds light on the importance of such spaces for the queer community and Lamy's personal experiences and views on the subject.

The article discusses the emerging fashion trend of lime green as a must-have colorway, highlighting its popularity among celebrities. Kim Kardashian West was recently seen wearing a tight Versace dress in lime green, while Kanye West sported a grey suit from Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton collection. The trend has been spotted on other celebrities like Blake Lively in a Versace suit and Kendall Jenner in a one-piece swimsuit. The article also mentions accessories in lime green, such as Hannah Weiland's Shrimps Venezia bag. The color is described as bright, poppy, and a blend between chartreuse and shamrock, which stands out and updates the wardrobe with a '90s vibe. The article suggests pairing lime green with pink and notes its presence in beauty trends, with Eden Loweth and Lily Allen embracing the color in their looks.

The Maison Margiela Tabi shoes, a re-interpretation of the traditional Japanese split-toe sock, have been a subject of controversy since their debut in 1988. Despite mixed reactions ranging from admiration to disgust, the Tabi has achieved iconic status and a cult following. The design's uniqueness and erotic appeal are highlighted, as it draws attention to an unconventional erogenous zone. Vetements' recent Tabi-style boots have sparked accusations of copying, igniting debate over the line between homage and appropriation. The Tabi's enduring success is partly attributed to economic necessity, as revealed by Martin Margiela in a rare interview.

The Maison Margiela Tabi shoes, a re-interpretation of the traditional Japanese split-toe sock, have been a subject of controversy since their debut in 1988. Despite mixed reactions ranging from admiration to disgust, the Tabi has achieved iconic status and a cult following. The design's uniqueness and erotic appeal are highlighted, as it draws attention to an unconventional erogenous zone. Vetements' recent Tabi-style boots have sparked accusations of copying, igniting debate over the line between homage and appropriation. The Tabi's enduring success is partly attributed to economic necessity, as revealed by Martin Margiela in a rare interview.

Tabitha Dukes, a lingerie designer who graduated from the London College of Fashion and has worked with prestigious brands like Alexander McQueen and Myla, discusses her creative process, inspiration, and the importance of empowering the wearer through design. She emphasizes the potential for gender fluidity in lingerie and the challenge of creating beautiful, technically sound pieces for all body types. Dukes also expresses a desire to eventually start her own line to address market gaps in lingerie for different shapes, sizes, and sexes.

The retrospective exhibition of Charlotte Johnson Wahl at Mall Galleries has been under-publicized, despite its significance. The author, who has worked at the exhibition, emphasizes the importance of recognizing Charlotte's work and life. The exhibition features family portraits, as well as 'The Maudsley paintings', which were created during Charlotte's time in a psychiatric hospital and reflect her battle with OCD and mental health. The author finds these paintings honest and harrowing, and they have been well-received by the public. The exhibition is set to close soon but there are hopes to continue sharing these works elsewhere.