Susan Smillie

Greece’s ancient landscapes are explored through five myth-inspired travel routes, from the oracle at Delphi and the River Acheron in Epirus to Nestor’s cave near Pylos, the Bronze Age citadel of Mycenae and Poseidon’s mythic hideaway on Paxos. Each destination blends archaeological heritage, natural beauty and rich mythological stories, encouraging visitors to connect both with history and the legends that shaped Greek culture.

A writer explores Vienna’s famed coffeehouse culture by tasting Sachertorte across several iconic venues with help from local family members. Legendary establishments such as Demel, Café Landtmann and Café Sacher are compared with the modern social enterprise Vollpension and a budget supermarket option. Hotel Sacher’s version is judged the most technically refined, while Vollpension earns praise for flavor and charm. The search highlights the city’s pastry traditions, varying interpretations of the classic torte and the role of atmosphere in shaping the experience.

Alonissos is highlighted as a thriving marine destination within Greece’s largest operational marine protected area, where abundant fish life and the Peristera underwater archaeological park attract divers. A citizen science project engages visitors in documenting marine species, supported by local dive centres and universities. The island offers varied beaches, hiking, restored historic villages and high-quality local food. Conservation organisations underscore the importance of protecting endangered monk seals, while sightings of rare marine species reflect the effectiveness of preservation efforts.

Villagers in Sandbank, Argyll revived the historic Oakbank Inn after a three‑year effort involving grants, share offerings and extensive volunteer work. The renewed community-owned pub aims to function as a social hub offering events and support against rural isolation. While challenges remain amid difficult conditions for pubs nationwide, supporters cite the strong resilience of community-run businesses. Plans include upgraded facilities, expanded community spaces and improved links to the nearby marina.

Greece’s monk seal population, half of the global total, faces renewed threats from unregulated marine tourism as visitors increasingly intrude into critical habitats. Conservationists report declining sightings in areas such as Formicula as boats crowd breeding sites and disturbances separate mothers from pups. New marine protected areas approved by the government could improve conditions if enforcement strengthens, but NGOs warn that many existing protected zones remain ineffective. Researchers and wardens emphasize the urgency of stricter patrols, greater resources, and better management to preserve one of the world’s rarest marine mammals.

Writers highlight five European destinations ideal for spring travel, praising blooming landscapes, mild weather and fewer crowds. Recommendations include Slovenia’s Velika Planina plateau during crocus season, Formentera’s quiet beaches and walking routes, Istanbul’s scenic neighborhoods and mosques, Greece’s lush Lefkada hiking paths and Copenhagen’s cultural attractions, cherry blossoms and revived outdoor life. Each location offers seasonal food, accessible trails or coastal scenery that makes spring an ideal time to visit.

A thriving population of critically endangered noble pen shells has been discovered in Greece’s Amvrakikos Gulf, offering rare hope for the species after mass mortality events linked to a parasite devastated Mediterranean populations. Scientists from across Europe, working through the EU’s Life Pinnarca project, are studying and relocating vulnerable individuals, noting that the presence of juveniles is crucial for species recovery. While the population appears healthy and parasite-free, human threats such as trampling, illegal dredging and poaching pose serious risks. Local community support is emerging, with residents helping to spread awareness and protect the clams, providing cautious optimism for the species’ future.

A solo sailor reflects on how years spent exploring Greek waters deepened her appreciation for the beauty and wildlife of Britain’s coasts, from turquoise bays in Devon to bioluminescent seas and vast dolphin superpods. A return to Scotland during her father’s illness rekindles a sense of independence and wonder through daily cold-water swims and close encounters with local marine life, revealing adventure and connection in familiar places.

After leaving her job and life in London, Susan Smillie undertakes a transformative solo sailing journey aboard her small boat Isean. Navigating through the UK, France, Spain, Portugal and into the Mediterranean, she discovers confidence, resilience and a sense of home at sea. Despite storms, loneliness and fear, the voyage strengthens her self‑reliance and connection with the boat, culminating in a redefined understanding of freedom and belonging.

A personal sailing journey from Lefkada through the Ionian Sea highlights calm conditions, accessible islands, secluded coves, and charming towns including Meganisi, Kalamos, Kastos, Kefalonia, and Ithaca. Scenic landscapes, wildlife encounters, hiking opportunities, and relaxed coastal stops shape an easygoing route ideal for exploration by boat. The piece concludes with practical details on charter options and a note about the author’s forthcoming book.

Winter hiking in Greece’s Zagori region reveals snow-covered mountains, dramatic viewpoints over Vikos Gorge, and tranquil trails through the Pindus range. Visits to villages such as Papigo and Vitsa include encounters with local hospitality, regional dishes and cosy guesthouses. Seasonal challenges like deep snow heighten the sense of adventure, while activities such as hiking, canyoning and rafting remain possible. Stunning landscapes, quiet paths and traditional mountain culture create an atmospheric off‑season experience.

A woman recalls her deep childhood bond with a goose named Cackles, the pride she felt in caring for the birds at her family’s cottage in Dumbarton, and the fear they often inspired in others. After Cackles chased a new mother with a pram, the goose was removed from the home, leaving the narrator heartbroken. Her father maintains that Cackles was sent to a local farm, a version she chooses to accept.

A former newspaper editor reflects humorously on leaving traditional office life for work aboard a boat, recalling chaotic workplace antics such as fermenting homemade cider, sneaking animals into the building, and a protracted conflict over inadequate hot-water taps that prevented making proper tea. The contrast between the stability of office routines and the challenges of working at sea underscores a nostalgic appreciation for workplace camaraderie and structure.

After a difficult year, a commitment to pursue more joy led to dedicated sailing practice and growing confidence. Progressing from short coastal trips to challenging waters, this shift ultimately resulted in leaving full-time work to live aboard a small boat. Life at sea, marked by self-reliance and immersion in the natural world, brought a sense of fulfillment that surpassed expectations.

A personal account describes discovering an exceptional rabbit stifado in Zakynthos, highlighting its warm spices, regional variations, and slow‑cooked depth of flavor. The piece emphasizes the dish’s cultural significance in Greece and provides a detailed recipe for preparing a rich, aromatic version at home.

Unusual and increasingly forceful encounters between orcas and sailing vessels in the Strait of Gibraltar have alarmed sailors and puzzled scientists. Multiple boats reported being spun, halted or damaged as pods repeatedly rammed rudders, behaviour researchers describe as highly abnormal for this endangered population. Experts suggest various stressors may be contributing, including heavy marine traffic, whale‑watching harassment, competition with fisheries, injuries linked to fishing gear, declining bluefin tuna stocks and decades of human disturbance. While witnesses described the encounters as coordinated and frightening, researchers caution against interpreting them as intentional attacks, attributing them instead to environmental pressures on a population already struggling with low numbers, scarce food and increasing injuries. Conservationists argue that reducing underwater noise and regulating human activity in the Barbate area is urgently needed to protect the vulnerable Gibraltar orcas.

Orcas along the Spanish and Portuguese coasts have repeatedly rammed sailing vessels, damaging rudders, disabling steering and injuring crew members in a series of unusual and coordinated encounters. Scientists note that such forceful interactions are unprecedented and may reflect stress in an already endangered population that migrates north each September. Experts believe a single pod is likely responsible for multiple incidents, with sailors reporting extended periods of ramming, spinning and sudden loss of control. Maritime authorities have issued distance warnings as researchers continue to investigate the causes behind the behaviour.

During pandemic lockdown in Pylos, Greece, a solo sailor constructs a makeshift beach den that becomes a source of comfort, creativity and emotional grounding. The shelter helps counter loneliness, evokes childhood memories and reconnects her with nature. Scavenging materials, observing wildlife and engaging in simple tasks provide structure and healing, highlighting contrasts between her chosen minimalist lifestyle and the hardships faced by others during the crisis. Eventually preparing to sail on, she plans to leave the natural structure for others to enjoy.

Sailors stranded worldwide by pandemic border closures are undertaking risky Atlantic crossings to return home before the hurricane season. Many lack safe harbours, face supply shortages and insurance gaps, and are being turned away by coastal authorities. Support networks such as the Ocean Cruising Club are helping coordinate information and assistance among more than 150 boats attempting the west–east crossing. Some governments have been petitioned to open safe havens, while others have imposed fines and strict enforcement. Individual sailors, including amputee Garry Crothers, face daunting solo passages as the only viable option for reaching safety.

A solo sailor describes adapting to isolation during the coronavirus pandemic, drawing on years spent living alone on a small boat. Resourcefulness, emotional support networks, simple routines, limited consumption and appreciation of nature are highlighted as ways to manage anxiety and confinement. Experiences at sea provide lessons in coping with fear, boredom and uncertainty, while the global slowdown offers a chance to rethink habits and pursue lasting personal and environmental change.

A detailed account of the Moken sea nomads on Thailand’s Surin Islands describes their traditional maritime lifestyle, the pressures of tourism, restrictive government policies, and environmental decline that have pushed their culture toward disappearance. It follows the lives of Sabai, Tad, and their family, illustrating how shifts in fishing resources, national park regulations, and citizenship issues have eroded their mobility and livelihood, leaving them the last of their nomadic community.